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Riga August 2009 by John Donovan
In 1980 a letter appeared in Miscellany from a Danish Morgan driver living in the northern wilds of Norway, claiming to have the loneliest Morgan in the world, which prompted me to write to him saying that I would visit to bring a little cheer to their lonely existence. Having duly done just that in 1982 I noticed the reference in various Morgan books to the “only known Morgan driver in Russia”, a certain Gennady Michailov. It occurred to me that his Morgan contacts and activities might be a little restricted and so I thought it would be a good idea to get in touch. Armed with the details provided in the literature I sent off my next letter explaining my interest in foreign Morgan travel and confidently indicating my wish to visit Gennady and Riga. I had no idea whether he spoke or understood English, but on any basis my expertise in Russian and/or Latvian was virtually non-existent. To the best of my recollection it was some months before I received a reply, saying that I would be very welcome in Riga, but that unfortunately it would not be possible for Gennady to visit England.
At my suggestion Gennady was enrolled as an honorary Cranmog member and accordingly was bombarded by all manner of Morgan paperwork, including in particular John Crummie’s (in)famous newsletters. MSCC also agreed my suggestion that he be made an honorary member of The Club and Miscellany found its way behind the Iron Curtain, at least for a number of years until someone in authority decided free copy would no longer be provided! Following my further intervention this omission has been rectified, at least for the Centenary year. Over the intervening years our postal contact continued and then, with the advent of technology, progressed to exchange of e-mail, via Alexey Tukacinskij, a friend of Gennady and a professional translator/interpreter.
Having retired in 2006 I felt that I had waited long enough to fulfil my stated intention, and I began to consider the logistics in greater detail. I was also prompted by Cheryl and Dudley’s “Grand Tour” of Europe which included a visit to Gennady and Riga. A fascinating account of their trip can be found on the Anglemog website. It is worthy of note that their story includes reference to a recollection by one of the staff at an hotel in mid Norway of the Cranmog cars which had visited in 1986, (Frans and Anne, Willi Koelln and Mr & Mrs President). Personal contact had also been made by our old friend Harry Schindler and Latvian girlfriend, (she of Reydon fame!), and also by my former senior partner’s daughter who kindly took and brought back various gifts whilst on some form of educational trip.
The Prologue, as some would say. Ramblings of a country solicitor (ret’d) others might.
How long for the journey? Who would like to come with me? Would I fly? (Answer? I hate bucket shop flying in principle so intensely that that question was immediately dismissed). To avoid Russia and the need for visas and additional paperwork it is necessary to cross from Poland into Lithuania, adding a little mileage/kilometerage. By my reckoning Calais-Riga should be about 1400 miles. That would be 3 nights and 4 days, if all went to plan.
Who would accompany me? Nobody from Green Tye! I mentioned it to a number of likely candidates, but ultimately only one was interested enough to commit, namely our professional driver Graham Evans. He and I have travelled to numerous Morgan events on the Continent over the years, and are well aware of one another’s little quirks/foibles! Coincidentally our first joint foray was in 1982. The third member of the party was Fred the mighty pottock hunter. He is known to many of you and is rapidly becoming multi-lingual. For those of you who have lost the plot at this early stage Fred is a small teddy bear, and pottock is the Basque word for a small horse.
Timetable/accommodation?
We discovered years ago the only place to stay in Dover, namely “somewhere else”. This discovery led to the conclusion that it made sense to start the journey the day before, and to establish base camp in Belgium, (provided always of course that the goal lay in the right direction). Hotel Abdjihoeve in Oudenburg serves the purpose admirably. One hour from Calais, good food and beverages and perfectly adequate accommodation. No ridiculously early rising and early morning ferry and no immediate loss of one hour. A very enjoyable evening with friends, a good night’s sleep and a fresh bright start, at least that’s the principle.
Dawn the second day. B,NL,D. Motorways all the way, with little traffic problems until shortly before Magdeburg. Friday afternoon in Germany is clearly very similar to, if not identical to, the UK. For better or worse I decided it would be sensible to take to “the little cross-country route I know”, or at least would know once we had travelled along it. We eventually arrived at the little town of Tangermünde on the banks of the Elbe, in what had been the DDR. We found and parked at a very attractive converted Schlosshotel on the riverbank, and confidently approached reception, looking forward eagerly to our evening’s rest and relaxation in the lap of luxury. Sorry, fully booked, came the reply. After telephone enquiries we were advised that the only room available in the town was to be found in Hotel Sturm, which itself was to be found next to Factory Sturm. We were told we could not fail to find it as it looked like a collection of containers put together, but that we should not be put off as inside it was perfectly acceptable, even though we learned that in soviet times it had been the hostel for the apprentices in the factory! We duly checked in and were favourably impressed by our quarters, which had clearly been renovated since soviet occupation. Other buildings in the area were still awaiting their turn. After more than ten hours and 480 miles on the road the first bier did not last long. We chatted with our charming hostess Vera, who had acquired the business some 18 months before, and learned that whilst most of her clientele ate in town, she was more than happy to prepare food for us. As time was getting on we decided to avail ourselves of her generosity and chose “wedding” soup and some form of poultry dish (we think). After dinner we discussed matters of international importance with her and consumed further beer and digestifs. 55 euros per head for DBB and drinks. Excellent and almost exactly half the previous night’s cost!
Off again on our travels, over the “roof” of Berlin and cross-country to the Polish border. I had studied the route in great detail and armed myself with numerous maps and it was not difficult to find the right road. I had even Googled the route and “driven” from Germany to Riga on the screen. I envisaged, correctly, that we would see a great many fields and trees. The road surface in the western half of PL was quite good, but it deteriorated as we travelled north-east, direction LT. Two way traffic all the way, with more speed cameras per kilometre than UK, but always well signposted. As far as we know we did not fall foul of any! Towards the end of the driving day we again began our search for accommodation. Although most of the journey was through rural areas, we did pass through some large towns. In one of these, Ostroda, we repeated the previous evening’s enquiry, with the same result. Off we went 10 or so miles up the road to the appointed hotel. This time we were towards the other end of the scale, in a Spa Hotel with white clad medical staff, out of whose clutches we managed to keep. Eleven hours on the go today, stopping only for petrol and coffee. How did we feel? Perfectly fresh, without any aches or pains. A fitting tribute to Morgan suspension and seats. Interestingly, (for some anoraks perhaps), all four seats come from the first public injected +8 R9372. Same procedure as every evening, eat, drink and retire. Approximately £50 per head, DBB and drinks. Very good value.
Our intention the next day was to make nightfall in Lithuania, and in due course to make the first telephone contact ever with Alexey. Close to the border with LT we were ushered into a roadside café by two young lads in a Lotus 7 lookalike who were keen on discussing our respective vehicles. Unfortunately it all suffered in the attempted translation. However the venue proved ideal for a lunchtime stop, and detailed consideration of the day’s progress so far. Progress seemed to be excellent, but even after our first contact it was still suggested we spend Sunday night in LT. Were it not for the fact that I had not noticed that my beloved Breitling had stopped (again!), and that we had forgotten that the clocks run faster east of Poland, we might have agreed. As it was we decided it would be madness not to make for Riga that evening, and we so told Alexey. The roads in LT are well surfaced, flat and partially dual-carriageway. They also avoid the towns, apparently part of deliberate soviet planning during their construction. This particular point is very much at variance with Polish policy, which means that often we were subjected to awful surfaces and seemingly interminable waits at traffic lights and railway crossings. Not only do Polish level crossing gates remain closed for what seems like an eternity, but also Polish drivers slavishly obey the command to Stop at crossings, even when no warning lights are showing. This practice led to wholly unnecessary loss of time en route.
The net result of the above, and further telephone exchanges, was that we arrived at the City outskirts at 19.30, where we were met by a black 1955 ZIM, looking every part its soviet origin. Out poured Gennady, Alexey and two friends Eugene and Boris. Spirited greetings and embraces later we were escorted to our quarters on the outskirts, only a kilometre or so from Gennady’s home. In true Donotours fashion we were out of the hotel and in a bar/restaurant opposite within half an hour. We had no Lats, but plenty of beer and vodka. We had Lits, but LITtle good would they do us there.
The first Latvian dawn and attempts at conversation in the local tongue at breakfast. The options were a little limited, and the need for words probably more so. Coffee (very thick and strong) and cold meat/cheese. Our hosts arrived and we drove off to the city dutifully following the ZIM and its occupants. The weather was good and the temperature high. So much so that in the middle of the city and thick traffic the ZIM decided enough was enough. Probably petrol vapourisation was the cause of our involuntary five minutes or so stuck in the middle of our very own traffic jam. Eventually we were off again to visit Riga’s Motor Museum. Gennady has been involved with the project since the late 60s, and the result is an excellent showcase of all forms of transport, including in particular cars of the soviet era. Stalin is to be seen, albeit in wax form, sitting in the rear of one of his black limos. Brezhnev can be seen in his accident damaged R-R, just as it was immediately post event in 1980. A talking point amongst local aficionados is the question of whether the superb Auto Union V16 is restored or a replica. There appears to be a feeling that so little of the car is original that the net result of the “restoration”, (in England), is to produce a replica, albeit one of the highest quality.
Back to the hotel and an evening visit to Gennady’s home, where we met his wife Eugenia and two local friends, one of whom had spent time in Coventry and is now maintaining London transport buses in London. I had been told by Dudley that Gennady’s house is a veritable treasure trove of motoring memorabilia, and indeed other collectables. The truth was even more impressive, (favourably). Every room is packed with items he has collected over the years, including a moped in the hallway. In the garden and sheds stand further bits and pieces, including cars and motorcycles.
Unfortunately the story includes a very dark chapter. Gennady has for decades been known as Mr Morgan in Latvia, being the only known owner of a Morgan for many years. He still is the very proud owner of a 1936 4/4. I say “is” the “owner”, but tragically he is no longer its possessor. Who is we do not know. Suffice it to say that Gennady was persuaded by a Swede to part with the car to allow the Swede to display it at an exhibition in Sweden. Since then, and despite enquiry of the Swedish police, the Swedish Morgan Club and Morgan contacts generally nothing whatever has been seen or heard of the vehicle. Given its vintage and rarity and the very low number of Morgans which are stolen, it is astonishing that nothing has come to light. Needless to say if anyone has any clues or suggestions, Gennady would be delighted to hear from you.
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Fancy a trip to Narvik
Narvik is a town in the county of Nordland, Norway, in the Ofoten landscape in North Norway, inside the arctic circle. Reykjavik in Iceland is of course the most northerly city but it is possitively overcrowded compared to Norwiegen towns, but that's just below the Arctic Circle and it was quite warm this spring when I was there with the family. JD has been to Narvik, twice, but not in the snow, and what snow they have there.
Of course CranMog has members in Narvik, Nanne and Magne Schille. Magne writes "We have just come back from a five days and 3600 km round trip from - Narvik - Østerdalen - Oslo - Valdresflya - and back to Narvik. We stayed 3 days in Oslo with Kristine and our son-in-law Dave, and our beloved grand son Bram Alexander."
"By the way, I had some problems with leakage in the cooling system during the trip. (Damaged hose from the heater, and all the coolant fluid disappeared. Result: an over heated +8!!), but when I closed the heater it worked well. I had to call for road assistance!!! See pictures!"
"Normally the roads in the southern part of Norway are ice free in April, but that varies from year to year. In the Narvik region we're ice free from April or May. It can be scary to drive in the evenings when the sun has disappeared after a sunny day (ICE!). By the end of May it is normally dry on all the main roads. One day the midday moon!!!
GREETINGS TO ALL CRANMOGGERS FROM Nanne and Magne. Miss you all! See you soon?"
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Flasher / Turn Signal Audible Warning
Use 2 Buzzers from Maplins £1.51.
(85 db fitted on the ply panel in front of the axle under the carpet) (your car your choice where and what you fit)
Buzzers work like Diodes.
Each buzzer works earthing though the bulb opposite to the signal the draw is not great enough to illuminate the idle bulb or affect the bulb in any way.
Click image to see the drawings on a word.doc page which you can print if necessary.
This system works on all models with flashing indicators including the latest models & has no adverse affects on the electronics.
No buzzing when using 4 way flashers as both buzzers are fed 2 positives signals.
I decided on this system as the wiring is easily accessible at the rear of my 2005 car (printed circuits under the dash) and ease of following the harness back in to the tub and the rear panel is closer to the ears than the dash.
Other items needed wire, 2 x 4way female bullet connectors, 2 x bullets heat shrink tube, & soldier.
Cost under £4 pounds.
Many thanks to Hedley Denmark for this one.
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Incident on the Hardknott pass"
Sounds like a good title for book or film. here's the web page and pictures from Chris Waters....
I first went over the pass in a 1961 Series 111B Hillman Minx about 1970, it overheated on the way home and blew the head gasket !
The second time was in my 1974 MG Midget about 1995, and no problem.
So, when I was there this September (2006), with my new wife, I thought I would give her a special treat as we were on honeymoon ! (yeah right)

We approached the Hardknott via the Wrynose Pass and started up the steepest part.
There are 1 in 3 acute S bends, and as you know, you can't see much in a Morgan when going up steep hills.
Well, my rear wheel dropped into a 5inch deep pothole, and then all I could hear was pzzzzzzzzzzz !
I quickly pulled of the road to find the tyre completly flat, so had to change it on the slope.
A large rock was found to hold the car while doing this. The almost new tyre was split and had to be replaced.
I'm still waiting to see if the Council will cough up !

CranMog used to visit the Wrynose and Hardknott passes on our outrageous long weekends with The Flying Thorpe Brothers - what wonderful times we had.
I remember stalling the +8 on one of the tightest and steepest of corners - not my fault honest.
It must have been quite a trick to change wheels on that slope though. Webmaster.
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Avril's secret recipe for "Norfolk Fruit Cake with Ginger"
(A Mary Berry Aga Recipe)
Click this picture to get the recipe of Avril's 'Norfolk Fruit Cake with Ginger' in Word format which you can easily print off. I can vouch for the tastiness of this actual cake, it is, nay was, delicious!! (Webmaster)

INGREDIENTS
1. 450g (1lb) mixed fruit and nuts, such as apricots, cherries, nuts, raisins, sultanas (dried cranberries are good and I use walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and brazil nuts), all roughly chopped
2. 100g (4oz) butter or margarine
3. 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
4. 175g (6oz) light muscovado sugar
5. 225ml (8fl oz) water
6. 2 eggs, beaten
7. 275g (10oz) self- raising wholemeal flour
8. 2 tsps ground ginger
9. 100-175 (4-6oz) stem ginger, drained of syrup, chopped (If you do not have stem ginger just increase the other fruits - dates are a good substitute).
MIXING
10. Grease and line a 20cm deep round cake tin. Preheat oven to 160C/325F/Gas mark 3.
11. Put the prepared fruit and nuts, butter, bicarbonate of soda, sugar and water into a large pan. Bring up to the boil and boil for 3 minutes.
12. Allow to cool.
13. Add the eggs, flour, ground ginger and stem ginger. Thoroughly combine then turn into the cake tin and level the top.
IN AN AGA
14. Bake on the grid rack in the large roasting tin on the lowest set of runners in the Roasting Oven with the cold plain shelf on the 2nd set of runners from the top. After 30 mins, transfer the now hot plain shelf to the centre of the Simmering Oven and place the cake on top. Cook for further 1 - 1½ hours or until a skewer comes out clean & the cake is firm to the touch. (I find that 20-25 mins in the top oven is enough and 1 hour in the bottom - depends on the stored heat.)
IN A CONVENTIONAL OVEN
15. Bake for about 1¼ - 1½ hours or until a skewer comes out clean & cake is firm to the touch.
16. Turn cake if it is getting too brown on one side.
17. Cool in the tin before turning onto a wire rack.
18. Will Freeze for up to 3 months either whole or in pieces.
My secret's out! Now you all know how easy it is!
PS. It's as good as a Christmas cake!
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Oil Painting of your Morgan
Please see letter below from Michel Coumes, a very interesting opportunity to get your beloved Morgan imortalised in oil. You can use the email link provided to get in contact. Do have a look at the website also.
Dear Sir,
I am a member of the Morgan Club de France as well as its south-east delegate.
As a painter, I now wish to develop creating personalized Morgan oil paintings.
Here is the address of my site www.michelcoumes.com where you will find a few examples of Morgan paintings. I believe that many of your members might be interested in having their dearest car painted.
The Morgan Club de France has already referenced my site on their own and I now ask you to please link my site with yours in the same way.
I thank you for your assistance and your welcome.
Very truly yours,
Michel Coumes
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Footwell Tool Box
My Father always said "Have three good reasons for doing anything." I have found two concerns with the nice looking tool tray on the new Morgans fitted under the ply cover over the axle, these make the first two.
1. In the event of requiring tools, the car has to be unloaded and perhaps not accessible on the cold, wet, night without opening the rear of the hood.
2. I believe the axle hits the tool tray, I found the end of jack section nearest the centre was broken,
And the third...
3. The Governor wanted a foot rest.
So I made a thing!
Click image to see the drawings on a word.doc page which you can zoom to read the small print.
Many thanks to Hedley Denmark for this one.
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Ease that "T" Bar Insertion
This is a bright idea from Hedley Denmark to make your life easier. You never know, perhaps the factory will take up owner ideas and incorporate them into new models, or maybe not. Anyway here's the pictures to explain it all....


I have always found it hard to locate the treads of the spare wheel bracket with the "T bar" while fighting the luggage rack. I have made and fitted this little nylon insert to my previous and present car, this has made my life a little easier. On my current car the nylon is tapped and bolted through the bracket. Dimensions are not set in stone but use 23/8" =60mm nylon rod/bar.
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Morgans In America
Route 66 begins in Chicago, Illinois on the shores of Lake Michigan and runs 2448 miles to Santa Monica, California on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. It crosses Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California.
On Wednesday 30th June 1999 the "US House" authorised ten million dollars, in grants, over ten years to states, communities, Indian tribes and historical societies to preserve landmarks along Route 66. Route 66 is now under the jurisdiction of the National Parks Service as a National Monument, guaranteeing its heritage for future generations.
Route 66 has been superseded by:
I-55 from Chicago IL. to St Louis MO.
I-44 from St Louis MO. to Oklahoma City OK.
I-40 from Oklahoma City OK. to Barstow CA.
I-15 from Barstow CA. to Rancho Cucamonga CA.
I-10 from Rancho Cucamonga CA. to Santa Monica CA.
By 1970, Route 66 had all but disappeared from commercially available maps and re-designated as local roads. In 1984 the last section of Route 66 in Williams, Arizona was superseded by I-40. However over 90% of Route 66 is still driveable.
It is possible to drive the 2448 miles in a week but to do Route 66 justice six weeks is needed. There is so much to see on Route 66, the possibilities are endless. We are driving the entire length of Route 66, that still exists, the good, the bad and the ugly! We will not bypass any sections in favour of interstates. Daily mileages will be low to allow time to thoroughly explore the many places of interest and still arrive at our hotels in time for a noggin, natter and nosh. There will be a number of 2, 3 and 4 night stopovers with plenty of leisure time.
Route 66, was just two lanes of concrete and asphalt connecting the mid-west and the west coast of America. Since its creation Route 66 has become a cultural icon.
Route 66 crosses eight states, three time zones and the Continental Divide. We cross many rivers including the Mississippi, travel through elevated plains, mountains, deserts, canyons and Native American territories. Visit historic buildings, palatial houses, museums, railroad depots, ghost towns, old cemeteries, mines, lakes and dams. You will experience the flair and charm of the old route, see the relics of old petrol stations, motels and roadhouses from the heyday of the 1930's to 1950's. Enjoy a trip back in time when forecourt attendants cleaned windscreens and checked oil, diners served real food, and vibrant neon signs promised rest, relaxation and entertainment. You will have the opportunity to relive your youth. Drink coffee at famous roadside diners. Visit those places from a bygone era that you have only seen in old movies and on television. Along the route towns and cities vary in size from a lonely wooden sign that was once Barstow to the sprawling streets of Chicago and Los Angeles.
This will be the second tour entirely arranged by Richard and Anita Jordan. This will be the fourth America tour with our Morgan. In 2000 we completely organised "The Eastern Experience". We arrange all aspects of the tour for you.
We are leaving London Heathrow for Chicago on 19th September 2004 to join our Morgan's and drive this historic route. We return from Los Angeles on 31st October 2004.
The response for the tour has been excellent. Places are currently still available.
We look forward to receiving your enquiries and hopefully you will decide to join us.
For information please enclose an A4 self addressed envelope with 2 first class stamps to:
Richard Jordan, 8 Thirsk Gardens, Bletchley, Buckinghamshire, MK3 5LH England. Telephone 01908 371245
Richard Jordan
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Stephen Wheatley Goes Racing
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In response to my round robin email the other week, Stephen Wheatley replied briefly with...
"it is quite sometime since I was a regular Cranmog goer but I have bumped into various Cranmoggers at the Morgan Sports Car Challenge Race Meetings over the years. I still have the 4/4 4 seater (CYL403H) which has transmogrified into a race car (hopeless on the road, now seats one, it is lightened, lowered, fullhouse crossflow, straight cut gear box etc) which I have campaigned in sprints, hillclimbs and circuit races.
Currently I am starting a new business so the motor sport is taking a back seat but hope to return to the tracks next year."
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What a good thing I still had his email address. Stephen promises lots of pictures and a write-up of his exploits on the track, so watch this space! Who said Cranmog doesn't do racing?
I remember the good old days when Philip Bell organised a Cranmog Track Day at Silverstone until they hiked the price up so high you couldn't see it. We should do that again, perhaps we could afford an abandoned air strip or a Go-cart track and a few bales of straw, all we need is a volunteer to organise it, posh lunch and plenty of beer, or is that a barn dance, I get so confused.
Andrew Culpin
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Write your own Caption
This is where I have a bit of fun at your expense. I've dug a few snaps out of my collection, all of which were taken specifically to embarrass the subject(s), see what you can do with appropriate captions and email or telephone them to me. First prize for the best one is an *Aero 8 in your choice of colours.
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Picture 1 - Philip & Judy picnicking at Shuttleworth
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Picture 2 - Laurie Povey enjoying the Hardknott Pass
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Picture 3 - Chris lends a word of advice"
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Picture 4 - How did she get those panties on?
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Picture 5 - Sheep droppings on the Campsite
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Picture 6 - Contemplating sausages!
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Picture 7 - Somebody knows, but not me
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Picture 8 - At one of Melvyn's parties
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*Commission your own painting of an Aero 8 by Toby Culpin, aged 4, I've got one!
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